A hidden gem away from Sicily’s usual tourist spots, Santa Maria La Scala is a charming fishing village nestled between volcanic cliffs and the Ionian Sea. To get there, walk along the 18th-century path called “Le Chiazzette,” a nature trail immersed in the silence of the Timpa nature reserve. The path takes about an hour to reach the village.Â
Sicilian lore believes this seaside village is inhabited by nymphs who tell of love stories and epic myths. One such tragic tale is that of the young shepherd Aci, who fell in love with a Nereid named Galatea. Galatea, whose name means glorious, is the daughter of the “old man of the sea”, Nereus, and the oceanid Doris. In Homer and Hesiod, she is described as the most beautiful of the 50 Nereids. The Cyclops Polyphemus lusted after her, but she didn’t reciprocate his affections.
Instead, Galatea fell in love with the shepherd Aci. She’d wait by the shore for him as he traveled down the mountain with his herd, playing music on his flute for her. Upon seeing the two lovers together, Polyphemus, in a jealous rage, ripped a huge boulder from Mount Etna, hurled it at Aci, and crushed him to death. In her grief, Galatea transformed Aci’s blood that trickled beneath the rock into spring water, creating the stream on Etna known as the Acis River. With her everlasting love for him and so they’d never be parted, she turned him into the horned god of the stream. He became immortal, retaining his original features, though larger in size, with a face turned a deep blue.
In later traditions, Galatea eventually yielded to Polyphemus’ advances and had his son, Galas, who was believed to be the ancestor of the Gauls.
Along the coastline of Santa Maria La Scale is the Grotta della Colombe (Cave of Doves). This hidden Eden, not far from the seaside village, was said to be a love refuge for Acis and Galatea to rendezvous.
The grotto is also connected to the story of another nymph, Ionia, who cared for the pigeons that sought shelter there in winter. Out of spite, some nymphs blocked the birds from entering, and they perished in the cold. Heartbroken, Ionia caused the cave to collapse, burying herself and the other nymphs inside.
Santa Maria La Scala also boasts exquisite traditional Sicilian pescatarian cuisine, which is not to be missed. As the sky turns honey, tinting the sea coral, feast on fresh seafood or a refreshing almond granita at the delightful Trattoria La Grotta, built into the black basalt cliff. Then stroll past the wooden turquoise boats along the harbour to watch the fishermen mend their nets on the pier, as the women weave traditional Sicilian embroidery. Finish your time here by gazing out past the breakwater boulders and the Martello tower, built into the volcanic rock jutting out of the Ionian waters.
